That made it difficult for Marretta to find much fresh water. For instance, we’d seen the Chadwick Boseman in my culture death is not the end shirt in other words I will buy this pool-dappled pattern—which is very attractive—not just at Kors’s Hockney-hashing collection, but also this season at MSGM (in a collection simply enough about summer). Yet that’s not to conclude this was an altogether poor debut from Marretta, who clearly has some serious knitwear petrol in his engine following his time in Milan. The double-face wool-blend track pants and rib-knit sweaters in violently opposing lifeguard-uniform yellow and red were, as he said, fun. So were his pieces of reversible outerwear in checks that mashed Prince of Wales against argyle, which matched his a-lot-like-Birkenstock sandals. The intarsia-homage diving-figure sweater was cute. But if Marretta is going to revisit British culture through his Italian eyes, he should either do it in a completely new manner or find lesser explored but still visually compelling aspects of the culture he has moved from Armani to dive into. “I am no longer an artist; I have become a work of art,” spoke a voiceover in the middle of Prada’s Spring 2020 men’s shoe, held, for the first time off home turf, in Shanghai. (Typically Miuccia Prada prefers to show her collections in the Fondazione Prada in Milan or at her New York office.) Later, the same voice said, “I feel myself a god.” Mrs. Prada has long maintained a reverent relationship with art, supporting and collaborating with her favorite creators, without ever formally declaring herself among their ranks—no word on the god situation. So, what were we to make of the statements pronounced, at techno speed, over a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf? To those at home in the Pradaverse, the words, lifted from Frankie Goes to Hollywood’s Welcome to the Pleasuredome, were Prada subversion at its best. In the show notes unlike her in situ shows, Mrs. P did not assemble journalists for a debrief the collection was described as one of optimism, suggesting that being hopeful can be an antidote for accepting the darkness of our actuality. It’s a continuation of the themes she launched at her recent women’s Resort show in New York, but when presented on male models, it took on a kinkier edge. I fought my way, using the advantage of having a small body, bending, and shoving until I got there. Okay, I think I see it! The window that a teacher stands behind. I extended my hand with the money, gasping for breath as two big girls squished me from both sides.
Chadwick Boseman in my culture death is not the end shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt
The girlishness and sweetness of those paillette scarves and embroidered shirts were replaced with an almost erotic purity the Chadwick Boseman in my culture death is not the end shirt in other words I will buy this idea of fetishizing a thing as perfect as it is, unadorned in a simple cotton or loose leather. The clothes were essentials in the most classic sense of menswear twills, tweeds, shirting, sportswear, khaki but oversize or misplaced in their proportion to reveal, say, a bare collarbone in a baby dollish tank, or to accentuate the strangeness of wearing a cropped jacket over a blazer in the same material. Together the looks comprised all the musts of a traditional male wardrobe, recut with the freewheeling spirit of boyhood. But a Prada show is never one-note. The stated reason for this Shanghai show was to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Milan being named a sister city of the Chinese cosmopolis. The reality is that business in China is booming. Over two days of touring the city’s hubs, it was impossible to miss a Prada store or billboard. In reviving its Linea Rossa business, the company has struck gold with a younger, more streetwear-inclined consumer. Perhaps that’s what gave birth to a series of prints of antiquated technology. A roll of film here, a cassette tape there, a ‘50s soda-pop joint milkshake later on all of these pieces appeared as a single graphic or as a grid of many on trendy nylon. As the models walked past an audience clad in last season’s Frankenstein-patterned pieces, you could see the commercial appeal. To be sinister, or sales-minded, though, is not the larger message. Zoom all the way out like, decades of menswear out and this collection could read as a pivotal moment for Prada. For a long time, its menswear shows were about medium-rise straight pant, a button-up polo shirt, and a loose anorak. Where did it go? I look around me quickly, pretty sure I look like a witch at the moment with my crazy mess of a hair. And I spotted it, laying there on the ground underneath the shoes of the merciless, hungry girls. I rushed to take it and looked at it to see that it’s covered with shoe marks all over. I may have survived the battle but it didn’t.. But given the mess that my hair was, I had to put that filthy piece of fabric on my head and withdraw to at least enjoy this piece of pizza… and think of a better way to get breakfast the next day.