We’re desperately in need of a scale against which to measure brands’ sustainability; in the In this house we believe black lives matter love is love women’s rights are human rights no human is illegal shirt also I will do this meantime, there’s always the test of time. “I think the comment I hear most,” said Norma Kamali, “is, ‘Oh, I still have your…[whatever].’ It really does make me feel great to think [that something I designed a long time ago] is still in their wardrobe.” Kamali’s catalog is so large and so adaptable, if she didn’t get bored easily, she could just rest on her laurels. Timing is an art, and of late, many of the designer’s rereleases are dictated by which of her vintage pieces are trending on Instagram; hence the reappearance of the Puli jumpsuit (Look 59) for Spring. Last Fall, Kamali revisited her “Modern Sculpture” dress—a tube separated from its connected sleeves by giant round cutouts sort of like a Henry Moore sculpture. Beyoncé and her team saw it and ordered customized versions for the “Spirit” video shot for The Lion King. It’s back for Spring as a dress, top, and jumpsuit, and in new fabrications. Speaking of art, Kamali has updated her parachute coat with metallic silver nylon that is almost as shiny as one of Jeff Koons’s reflective pieces. We talk a lot in the office about adapting swimwear for city life. Kamali, who is noted for her skills in this area, makes it easy with bra tops and other convertible pieces (another signature). For the daring, there are nude-illusion options; more covered but also chic are her “diaper” bottoms, first popularized by Claire McCardell in the 1940s. Kamali is still going strong with gender-fluid design “I think it’s becoming more and more real every season,” she noted and she photographed her Spring 2020 collection in two sessions, one on women, the other on men, some of whom are employees. The latter were invited to bring their own accessories and to choose and style any pieces they like. They selected their own poses as well. “They all chose this [wrap] dress,” Kamali noted, “and it’s very funny because it’s a dress I did in the ’70s, and it was the first dress that guys ever bought from me.” Good design, apparently, has no expiration date. “Clothes,” states Kamali, “have to function, but they also have to make you happy.” The empire didn’t exist when the English army started to wear red. The British army could be called the British army, and not the English army by the end of the 17th century. However red comes about due to the English civil war and the parliament’s “New Model Army” which was formed in 1645.
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Due to the In this house we believe black lives matter love is love women’s rights are human rights no human is illegal shirt also I will do this ever-expanding menswear season, I wasn’t in New York to watch Nihl’s models slink around Nowhere Bar in New York I was about 7,000 miles away in Shanghai for Prada’s Spring 2020 runway of innocents. At a preview for Neil Grotzinger’s Spring 2020 collection, the designer explained his myriad references, starting with bar culture and the link between hetero and queer masculinity. Hence the venue he chose on East 14th Street, the sort of grimy spot where you could imagine downing some Heinekens alongside Pride flags and twinkling Christmas lights. Grotzinger thrives in the contradictory space of queer masculinity, exploring the areas where masc meets femme, hardcore meets tenderness. He’s only been at it for three seasons since graduating Parsons’s MFA program, but he’s already built a recognizable oeuvre: pelvis-baring trousers, second-skin tops with suggestive cutouts, and rigorous handiwork like beading and chain mail. Spring 2020 is his most evolved and sure-footed collection yet. The stretch tops and trousers with circular chunks removed remain, but Grotzinger has expanded into leather, offering uniform-inspired jackets and V-front trousers. Those plunging fronts might seem untenable for real-world wear, but as the designer demo, he’s calculated the exact curve that allows the pants to cantilever around the lower body, staying put even while slightly unzipped. There is also a large group of shirting, with banker stripes meeting up with homoerotic portrayals of cowboys and car culture. Grotzinger ran the shirts through a sewing machine willy-nilly to create corset seams that run around the body, front to back, tugging the fabric off the shoulder here, revealing a collarbone there. In a variety of shapes and patterns, these have instant hanger appeal. The most beautifully kinky of Grotzinger’s creations are the flight suits, rendered useless or at least useless for pilots by zippers or hook-and-eye closures that circle the body. Equal parts Leigh Bowery and Evel Knievel, these are perfectly strange summations of Grotzinger’s MO: fetishizing functionality from a queer POV. These might not be the most salable of his offering, but much else of what appears in this lookbook surely warrants a spot at retail. As of yet, only one shop carries Nihl. If the menswear season is big enough to warrant trips halfway around the world, surely its stores are big enough to carry this daring young designer. Up to this point regiments or companies would wear colors mostly dependent on the whims of whoever raised the unit, who back then usually also paid for much of a unit’s equipment including uniforms (This is a bit of an oversimplification).